Today was our Day of Religion – a journey through Iceland’s spiritual past, from pagan waterfalls to festive folklore. We began with a sacred splash…
🌊 Goðafoss: Where Gods Took the Plunge
Just 15 minutes from our hotel, we arrived at Goðafoss, the “Waterfall of the Gods.” It’s a short 5-minute walk from the parking lot, and the view is powerful – both visually and historically.
Back in 1000 AD, Iceland faced pressure from Christianized Europe to abandon its Norse gods. At the annual parliament in Þingvellir, Thorgeir Ljosvetningagodi, a pagan priest and lawspeaker, made a dramatic decision: Iceland would convert to Christianity, but people could still privately honor their old beliefs.
To symbolize this shift, Thorgeir returned to his home town and threw statues of the Norse gods – Thor, Odin, Freyja – into this very waterfall.
The falls were designated a protected natural monument in 2020, preserving both their beauty and their legacy.
🌼 Brunch in Akureyri: A Botanical Bite
Next, we drove 40 minutes to Akureyri, Iceland’s “Capital of the North.” It’s more town than city, with just under 20,000 residents, but it’s rich in history and charm. Loved that their traffic lights were hearts!
We brunched at LYST, nestled in the botanical gardens. And wow – this was a culinary highlight! We had:
- Open-faced sandwiches (excellent)
- Fish soup (solid)
- The lunch special: white fish with vegetables and purees – a flavor dance that made our tastebuds do the tango
Bucky tried to lick the plate. I pretended not to know him.
We highly recommend this restaurant.
Akureyri’s roots trace back to Helgi Magri Eyvindarson, an Irish Viking who blended Christian and Norse beliefs. He lit fires to banish evil spirits and founded his estate near here. The town’s name likely means “Field Sand-spit,” and its growth was slow but steady, especially after regaining its municipal charter in 1862.
🎄 Christmas House: Trolls, Cakes & Calendar Magic
Just 15 minutes away, we visited the Christmas House – a festive wonderland of Icelandic traditions. Spread across two floors, it’s packed with decorations, treats, and folklore.
Highlights:
- The world’s largest advent calendar tower, with numbered windows and fairytale quotes
- A sculpture of Grýla, the child-eating troll mother of the 13 Yule Lads
- The Christmas Cat, who hunts children without new clothes
- A mailbox to send letters to Santa
- Sugar-glazed apples at the Apple Shed
- Nordic gifts at the Black House
- A miniature turf church in the Christmas Garden
- The Wishing Well of Unborn Children, with a star-tipped tree for future generations
We bought a date and chocolate cake — moist, rich, and very merry.
See my other post to learn more about the crazy Icelandic Christmas Traditions!
🧌 Hvítserkur: The Troll Who Took Too Long
After a 3-hour drive (with dinner along the way), we reached Hvítserkur, a rock formation jutting from the sea. Parking was 1200 ISK, with a paid toilet nearby.
Legend says Hvítserkur was a troll who tried to destroy a church bell, furious about Iceland’s conversion to Christianity. But he took too long, and when the sun rose, he turned to stone – frozen mid-rage.
The rock is now covered in bird droppings (hence the name “white shirt”) and resembles a dragon sipping from the sea. It’s dramatic, but not quite worth the long drive.
🍔 Dinner at N1 Gas Station: Surprisingly Delicious
We stopped at N1 Staðarskáli for dinner — and wow! So many options:
- Pizza, hot dogs, burgers, paninis, smoothies
- Combo of the month: Parma ham, mozzarella & pesto panini + apple-spinach-ginger smoothie (2600 ISK)
It was tasty, though we wished they toasted the sandwich after adding the fillings.
But really unbelievable the quality of food one can get at a gas station here.
🛏️ Fagrabrekka Private Rooms Guesthouse: Cozy, If a Bit Cramped
We checked into Fagrabrekka Guesthouse around 9 PM:
- 1 double room + 1 double + single room
- Shared bathrooms
- Free cancellation up to 2 days before
- Check-in after 5 PM, check-out by 11 AM
The room was tight – three beds and a couch, which quickly became our suitcase shelf. It wasn’t as spotless as our previous stays, but still reasonable. The shared bathroom setup worked fine, and the atmosphere was quiet and restful.
Tomorrow, we head toward the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Bucky’s scarf is fluffed, his cake is packed, and his heart is full of folklore.
Note: We’re not affiliated with any of the places or services mentioned. No króna, cookies, or cuddles were exchanged for these reviews — just our honest, slightly troll-touched thoughts. 🎄🧌🦫